by: John & Benz Rana
article originally appeared in print: 11.18.06

Last March, we availed ourselves of Cebu Pacific’s P10++ promo and booked flights to various local destinations with roundtrip airfare totaling only P 1,652 net per person. We booked flights not exactly knowing where to stay and what to do; we chose cities we felt we might not be able to go to if not for the cheap rates. A good friend mentioned Isla Naburot, a small island off Guimaras. We searched for more info on the web, and the stories of travelers who have been to the place were so enticing, we knew we just had to go there. We only hesitated when we learned it had no electricity, but the stories we’ve read made the chance too good to pass up. One concern was our daugher Kite; how would she survive? But we psyched her up about what to expect and promised she wouldn’t complain.

Fishing for Isla’s contact numbers (0920.9275372 | 033-321.1654 | 033-321.0880) wasn’t easy since they don’t have a booking office in Manila. We couldn’t quite decide whether we’d book a night or two, so the man on the other end of the line said most of their guests said one day wasn’t enough. We felt it was a marketing ploy and decided that one night was enough. As it turned out, the man wasn’t trying to make a hard sell; he was simply being honest.

A Prelude

Off to Iloilo we went: first day, in Isla Naburot, and a city tour the day after. But our flight was delayed, and our boat had already left for Isla as rough waves were predicted later that morning. Upon arrival, we were brought to the residence of the Saldañas, the resort owners, and tito Pons explained the situation to us. We agreed to reset the trip to the island for the next day. Catching a glimpse of the inside of the house from the porch, we were invited to come in and plan the rest of our day.

The house was beautiful! The look was nothing like Vigan or Casa Manila; it was a mixture of the old combined with modern and tasteful sensibilities. We knew the furnishings were rare and priceless but they were utilized in such an ordinary and inconspicuous way that everything simply blended well; no fuss was made about the rare pieces which would have been centerpieces in a modern residence in Manila.

We abused tito Pons’ hospitality and asked if we could look around. Behind the house was a great view of the Iloilo River. When tito Pons found out one of us was also an alumnus of his school, he showed us memorabilia from his glory days at the NCAA and the Olympics. We realized we were talking to a basketball legend; it felt surreal!

If the warmth of the host and the beauty of his house were a prelude to what we could expect from Isla, then the price we paid for the trip would be worth it, we thought.

The next day, Anne, resort manager and daughter of tito Pons, picked us up from the hotel and told us the ride to the island might not be smooth due to the weather. The trip, which took more than an hour, normally takes only 40 minutes. It was sunny at the pier but rain met us midway through our trip.

When we reached the cove in which Isla is tucked, the water turned calm; its position opposite Guimaras makes it impenetrable by mighty waves. It was still drizzling when we arrived, but the calming effect of the serene waters, white beach, and rustic view could not dampen our spirits.

Paradise Found

Ever set foot in a place and immediately wondered when you’d be back? That was how we felt. Everything was so simple yet so charming, like the Saldaña’s abode if on a modest scale.

The resort’s dining area has tables and benches made from planks of hardwood salvaged from old houses and churches. In the kitchen, four tall, antique clay stoves are powered by firewood. The trash bins were actually Spanish-era terra cotta sewerage pipes.

The food came with the package: three meals a day, slow-cooked and made from scratch. Servings are not just generous; they’re practically a feast and are fresh, plentiful, and delicious! Our every need was attended to by their unobtrusive staff, whose service was professional yet personal, making us feel like we were Saldana family friends more than resort guests.

Chatting with Anne, who was warm, sincere, and candid, wasn’t like talking to a typical resort manager whose responses to queries are so polished and rehearsed they don’t feel ‘real’ anymore. She made us feel at home with stories about herself, her family, and how the place came to be; it was like catching up with an old friend you haven’t seen in a while. When you do visit, ask her to show you a coffee table book featuring the nicest resorts around the world; theirs is the only Philippine resort featured in it.

The place is charming both during the day and at night, and suddenly, we wished we could stay another day. Kite was so preoccupied playing in the white sand beach and shallow waters that she didn’t notice she was playing alone, which was unusual.

We didn’t see the need to snorkel since tides were low in the late afternoon, so we simply walked in knee-deep water, and, wearing our goggles, bent over, holding our breaths, to see plenty of soft corals you only get to see on Discovery Channel or NGC.

Avoiding using the cliché ‘paradise’ to describe the place is futile since that was how it was to us. Even our daughter, who thought she couldn’t sleep in total darkness, sans aircon, told us she enjoyed herself and wanted to go back to Naburot. That to us spoke volumes about the charm of the place. Though stripped of modern conveniences, it inspires and provides solace and contentment even to an urban dweller. It’s an experience that compels one to look at life and realize that joy can be found in the simplest things.

We were actually in sort of a daze as we left the place dreaming about building our own little rustic vacation house someday soon. But reality kicked in and we decided it was an impractical proposition. We then realized it wasn’t really a resthouse we wanted, but to recreate our Naburot experience all over again.

(you can check out our pictures of Isla Naburot through John’s Blog.)

Postcript: After this article came out in print, we have been informed that Mr. Ponciano “tito Pons” Saldaña passed away in September 2006. We dedicate this article in his memory. ~J&B

This entry was posted on Friday, March 14th, 2008 at 2:13 am and
is filed under Prep Talk.